My 1982 Yamaha Seca 750 Carbs were completely sludged up. The previous owner didn’t take care of the bike at all and it sat for what I can only guess was many years outside. The gas tank was full of rusty gas. I wish I had thought to take a picture of the gas as I poured it out it was brown rusty with chunks of flaky rust. It was beyond bad and it all flowed into these carbs and packed the jets with rusty paste. It then was allowed to dry and become so varnished up that a person could not twist the throttle. I figured the cable was rusted up from the winter(s) it sat outside. That was not the case the cable was free.
As I took the carbs apart I noticed that someone else had taken them out and managed to strip out the screw heads and loose the little lock washers and other ‘un-needed parts’. The guy I purchased the bike swore it ran only 6 short months ago. It only needed a new starter switch on the handle bar. I am pegging the guy and an absolute liar. I probably should have really thought twice at attempting to clean these carbs.
So here are my tips for this project.
1. Buy and read the Haynes owners workshop manual.
Wear gloves the solvents are not good for your skin. I liked the white ones in the following images. They were tighter fitting and allowed me to pick up little parts easier, however the green ones held up much better. It also helps to lotion your hands, it fills the pores in your skin with lotion rather than oil and solvent. It washes off much easier.
Wear some safety glasses. I hate them but every time I take them off I flick some solvent in my eyes or when using the air compressor to blow something off I get a faceful
Use the right size screw driver on the jets. Use a clean screw driver with a good sharp tip. Buy yourself a new one or grind it flat. These brass jets will take some force to remove and easily strip out if you are careless.
Don’t use wire to clean out the jets. The brass and aluminum scratch easily.
If you feel you must poke – and I usually do. Use a nylon bristle from a scrub brush. Use an air compressor, it works 99% of the time.
Here is a picture of the green gloves that hold up much better to the solvents and work.
When you are blowing out the jets with an air compressor watch your eyes. The jets sometimes blow back in unexpected ways.
The manual recommends you take the carbs apart one at a time. I agree. You will use one assembled carb as a guide to where the jets in the disassembled carb will go back. The book is only so good as it is black and white. However you may want to remove the larger rubber/plastic parts so you can dip the whole set of carbs as a unit. I found it impossible to get one carb at a time clean. So I took the big obvious parts apart and kept them separate. Use the float bowl – fill it with carb cleaner and place the parts (the parts you KNOW the location of) in it to soak. Things like the diaphragm/piston shouldn’t be soaked in the solvent. I once left a tooth brush in the solvent overnight, it kind of partially melted. Once all the vulnerable plastic parts are removed you can get that carb cleaner all over it and avoid the whole dirty carb getting the clean one dirty. It goes much faster if you don’t have to do one at a time.
The book says not to touch the pilot jet. I felt I just had to. The trick is putting it back the way it was. Screw it in as far as it goes while counting the turns. Mine was 3.5 turns before it hit bottom. Unscrew it all the way – clean it out. Then screw it all the way in again and back it off 3.5 turns.
|The Contour Project|
|Back in 2004 I bought this 98 Ford Contour for $200. Oh yeah it looks nice in the picture. But the smell!You see this guy drove it into the desert and has a stroke and dies -they don’t find him for two weeks. His body had exploded all over the inside of the car.
No I am just kidding about that. The engine is blown on it and all the junk yard would pay this kid for it was $200 so I told him I would buy it for that and I could use the parts off of it for our other 98 Contour. But I had no idea it was in such good shape. (No it really doesn’t smell) It has four wheel disk brakes and a sun roof.
|I am thinking “how hard could it be to take the engine out of the blue car and put in the one from the junk yard? Heh This car with a running engine would be worth about $3000.So I calls up the salvage yard and asks them how much they want for a used motor. Only $500 some bucks. . I have been fixing my cars and trucks for a while now and I have done alternators, starters and even the transmission on my truck. So I go buy this engine. -oh….. now what have I gotten myself into. This thing is REALLY heavy. Look at all this stuff hanging from it. Can I do this? I am going to do it now -I think.|
|Well the dude and the junk yard says his computer says it is an 11 hour job. Honestly it is going to take me that long to find my tools. But I am going to tear into and try. The worst that can happen is I get frustrated and return the new motor and sell the car to the junk yard for $200 and just be out the time I spent.|
|7/7/2004||3 hours -Pick up motor from Viking Auto Salvage, Remove hood, Set up my work area and organized my sockets and wrenches. Drained some fluids out of engine. Disconnected hoses and removed the top engine mount.. oppps I don’t think I should have done that yet. Dumped leaves and rocks out of my toolbox. Lost 2 quarts of blood to savage mosquitoes and contracted some rare form of west nile and lime disease and oil poisoning. I am having fun so far.|
|Feb 12th 2005 -6 hours||It was remarkably nice out. The calm before the storm. The neighbor Donny helped me with his hoist to lift the car off of the front end. Unbelievable. Why did I think I could do this?|
|I thought that I would pull the engine out of the car -Not that I would have to pull the car off of the engine. Well. That is the only way to take this thing apart. Fun!|
|One thing that I did notice is that they only way to change the alternator is to do this -pull the car off the body thing. Wonderful! I think I will bring the alternator in to get it checked out as long as I am at it here. Perhaps I might just buy a new one. How ridiculous! I have changed the alternator 4 times on my wonderful Ford ranger. I can just imagine how pissed I would be doing that with this car. “hello Viking auto salvage?”. Yes the engine tipped over spilling oil on the lawn. I bet the procedure is to drain the oil before taking the engine out. It is starting to rain now.|
|Here is a better shot of the whole mess in my back yard. I tarped it over and hung it up for today. I am cold dirty and wet and sick of banging my knuckles for today.|
|Don’t ya just Love Minnesota! I was wearing a T-shirt yesterday.I might get at this again in the Spring? or next week?|
|June 24th 2005. It has almost been an entire year since I started this project. I have two weeks before I want to take this car to Camp Tomahawk. If I don’t finish it I have to either take the bus or drive that nice brown 78′ F150 that gets about 5mpg. (I will be taking the bus if I fail).|
|Moving the engine around on the lawn is a big chore. We hoist it up and put it in the truck, we then drive it around to the other side of the car and hoist it back out. The hoist sinks
in the soft dirt and is almost impossible to push into position. Frank come and helps get it into position with Cody and I.
|My Sons Cody and Matthew were great help as I pretty much didn’t feed them for these two weeks because I was totally focused on getting this car put back together. Here is Cody lifting the engine out.|
|Here is a picture of where that motor needs to go.|
|Notice the Trans-axel in this picture. It is that shaft that is conected to the passenger side wheel. Yeah ahh that needs to get slid on the motor and then into the transmission as it is
all going back together. Well we figured that really wasn’t possible as we are doing this and it turns out to be a bunch more work on the Weds night before we leave. I ended up taking the wheel off and pulling the whole axel out and putting it back on.This is about how far Cody and I got on this day. Frank came over the next day and gave us a hand getting the motor and transmission together.
|After Frank helps me jocky the motor and transmission into place, Donny gives us a hand with his crane.|
|Donny’s Truck has this wonderful crane that made the hole project possible at all. I can’t thank him enough for his help here.|
|Donny, Tim and Frank were awesome help at this point in the fun.|
|I am not really working as fast as it looks here.|
|It is back together! I feel that if I want to give
up now I can, because it could be towed down to some mechanics garage
in one peice.
|See that wiring harness there? Yeah ahh that should have been put on BEFORE the engine and car went together. What a bear it was to get back behind the engine. There is a serious lack of room between the engine and the firewall.|
|A few more parts to put on yet here.|
|The “work shop”|
|A storm came up and blew a tree down on top of me and
|Last minute projects|
|Monday Eve. The Trans-axel mounting to the engine Tuesday Wiring harnesses|
|Thursday morning -The steering column hook up|
|Friday The transmission shift linkage
Done at 11:30 pm! We GOT TO PACK for a week of camping. I am good and tired the next day driving to northern Wisconsin.
|Sat. We drive the car to Tomahawk!
The tailpipe come apart between the engine and the muffler. We come into Scout camp sounding like some kind of stock car racer.
|It drives all the way home perfectly. What a trip and what a sense of accomplishment. Now I have to get to work on all that stuff I ignored for two weeks|
I have since sold the car. It ran when I sold it, I just could never quite feel like it wasn’t going to give me some big problem that required taking it all apart again. I wanted to sell it while I still felt good about the project.
My grandfather owned the hardware store in Osseo MN. These old stoves were sold at the store in 1890s. This one was used in his house to heat it. After he died my dad noticed the rusty stove parts in boxes in the basement. He saved it, and restored it in 1979. It then went back into boxes until about three weeks ago and I pulled it out and put it together.
It was stored in a garage for a while where it got damp and parts rusted. I will need to sand the rust off and have it nickle plated.
Base Burner Stoves Facets & Features (plagiarized from old sales literature)
The wide and ever growing reputation of Base Burners for durability and great fuel economy is based entirely upon their high quality, only the highest grade of materials being used in their manufacture.
Skilled mechanics mount and fit all goods. All joints and doors fit absolutely tight and fire is at all times under the perfect control of the damper system.
Every Base Burner has special features for fuel economv and conveniences to be had in no other line. A careful study of these features will help you increase your trade and enable you to prove to your customers that will give the greatest satisfaction and last the longest.
EVERY INCH WORKS. The Base Burners stoves are designed to radiate heat from every square inch of surface.
Everyone knows that the hottest part of a range or a cook stove is the oven bottom, and the same is true with the ash pit bottom of a Base Burner.
Air is taken from the floor underneath the Heater and passed up between the upper Flue Bottom and Ash Pit Bottom into this Triple Flue, where it is heated to a very high degree, and is discharged through openings on the ash pot holes underneath the foot rails. By the use of the Triple Flue, over 660 square inches of extra radiating surface is put to work and will give off enough heat to warm a medium sized room.
ALL THE FUEL UTILIZED. The Base Burners Fire Pot represents a great feature of Base Burner construction. It is a well-known fact that the accumulation of ashes around the outside edges of the fire pot is a great check to the heat which should be radiated into the room.
By shaking this Lower Hot Blast Fire Pot the ashes are all cut away from the edges of the upper and lower Fire Pot, giving a clean, snappy fire which sends the heat into the room in place of up the chimneys.
With this pot you not only get draft to your fire at the bottom, but at the center as well, giving absolutely complete combustion.
FIRE POTS can be removed through upper mica door without unloosening a single plate or bolt and can be revolved to insure against any possibility of their warping in the back next to the flues.
Grate complete comes out through ash pit door, without removing a single plate or bolt. The most improved style of a Duplex Grate with Annular Shaking Ring is used. By shaking the Angular Ring all the unburnable particles are forced into the basket formed by the Duplex Grate. A few turns to the right and left of the Duplex drops all the refuse into the ash pan.
WITH OTHER FLUE SYSTEMS the course followed by the heat is radically different. heat travels from both sides of the fire pot through a central flue into the back of the stove, a very ineffective plan when compared with the Peninsular way, because of the small flues necessitated, which results in coming in contact with less exposed radiating surfaces.
No FLUE STRIPS are used and instead of the heat being forced around any sharp turns, it asses easily and freely in an undivided sheet in one direction only, around the concave bottom, thus having a greater draft and better circulation.
THE ASH POT DOOR and register are machine ground, absolutely tight, so that fire can be controlled to a degree.
THE MAGAZINE is extra large and gas tight. Chestnut or stove coal can be burned.
ASH POT SECTION is extra large with plenty of air circulation to insure the lasting qualities of the grates.
SWING COVER and magazine cover fit perfectly tight, no possibility of leakage at that point.
MICA DOORS and joints are fitted with the greatest care because tight joints are necessary to insure perfect results and to minimize the, consumption of fuel.
SILVERYWHITE NICKEL placed on the stove adds not only to its appearance, but also to the radiation. It is well ventilated and will last indefinitely. Handsome ornamental urn.
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